bose component 5

bose component 5

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An easy-to-install in-ceiling speaker system that has magnetic grilles and high sound quality designed to meet various custom installation requirements.High Sound QualityMoisture resistant 6.5" blue PP (polypropylene) mica cone woofer for high performance mid-low sound reproduction1" fluid-cooled soft-dome swivel tweeter delivers pure high frequency with precise sound positioningUnique DesignGrain-finished acoustic baffle with spiral pattern for natural sound dispersionSlim profile design for flush in-ceiling or in-wall mountingSealed back cover to protect speaker and crossover from dust and moistureQuick and Easy InstallationPaintable grille with magnets for quick and easy installationLarge mounting clamp with non-slip tread for sure gripRecommended Use: In-Ceiling - Front / Surround SpeakersType: 2-way coaxialWoofers: 6...

can anyone tell me where i can get a replacement for this electrical component?

it looks like a m80 on the front it says T1 2.4 mf s 100 vdc anyone know where i can get a replacement for that link to the part would be great
and the other one is a colber 7.5 ohm 5 % 15 w again about the size of an m80

The reason i need these is my tweeter to my bose 301's is not working... so i jumped it and bypassed these and it worked... so these must be dead .......
there are these two componenets and a 561 ge light in line with these leading to the tweeter any help would be greatly appreciated

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4154979.html?query=bose+301&stemming=on

online patent site is above

If there's a GE 561 bulb in the circuit. That's the part most likely to fail. They are automotive bulbs that are still widely available. Can you test the circuit, bypassing only the bulb? Light bulbs are used as a protection device in some speakers because they increase in resistance as more power is applied.

The electrolytic capacitor (100 volt, 2.4MF) would be the next likely to fail. They tend to have the shortest service life as far as electronic components go... I would replace ALL the electrolytic capacitors (and light bulbs) in any speakers over about 15 years old.

Some capacitors used in speaker crossovers are non polar and it wouldn't matter how you installed it. Others have a polarity usually indicated by a plus, minus or arrow on one side of the capacitor. I would try to use the same type as the original. If the capacitor is not non polar, just make sure you install it so the power source is on the + side of the capacitor and the tweeter side is the -. ...or the arrow points from the power source to the tweeter. There are also radial capacitors that have both leads coming out one end... and axial capacitors that have a lead coming out of each end. Choosing the proper type might make installation easier.

The resistor (15 watt capacity, 7.5 ohm value, 5% tolerance) is probably fine. Can you do a test bypassing the capacitor and leaving the resistor in the circuit? The resistor should reduce the output of the tweeter some (to match the other drivers in the system). That's normal and what it's meant to do. If it's bad, you should be able to search the internet for a 7.5 OHM 15 watt resistor. 15 watts is a maximum. You could use something with a higher max wattage. You could also use 2 15 ohm resistors in parallel to equal the 7.5 ohm value that might be hard to find.

Capacitors these days are labled uF instead of MF. No problem... same thing.

The one minor problem I see is that nobody seems to make the 2.4uF value anymore. I can only find 2.2uF and 2.7uF. Either should work fine as a replacement, since older capacitors usually had a 20% tolerance range (meaning a capacitor labeled as 2.4 uF could have an actual value anywhere from 1.92uF to 2.88uF). A modern 2.2uF 100 volt capacitor should work fine.... or even a 2.7uF. The voltage rating is a maximum and doesn't have to be matched exactly, just make sure the replacement can handle at least 100 volts. Although, you should try to match it somewhat closely for best service life. Don't use a 600 volt capacitor to replace a 100 volt...

The 2.2 uF would have a higher crossover frequency and would leave a very slight "hole" in frequency response between the woofer and tweeter at worst. The 2.7uF would have a slightly lower crossover frequency and have a very slight overlap with the woofer at worst. This might blend better...

There are several online stores that sell electronic components. They tend to hit you with big shipping charges and minimum order amounts for small orders though...

Parts Express has 2.2uF and 2.7uf 100 volt electrolytic capacitors in all the styles. Non polar and standard radial or coaxial...

http://www.parts-express.com/electronic-components.cfm

This guy also sells come capacitors. He has 160 volt 2.2uF electrolytics that should work fine and he may not hit you as hard for shipping or minimum order...

http://www.justradios.com/

Hope some of this helps... Good luck with your speakers!!!